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pointers on getting this scrog organised please

farty bits farty strawberry banana scrog coco

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#21 denots

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 06:04 PM

Just keep doing what your doing Olmec. And keep pulling them heads under until your screen is about 70% full.

Then flip, but leave the MH in for about 10 days or until you see true flower, then change to HPS and your be good mate.


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#22 olmec

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 10:29 PM

Just keep doing what your doing Olmec. And keep pulling them heads under until your screen is about 70% full.
Then flip, but leave the MH in for about 10 days or until you see true flower, then change to HPS and your be good mate.


It's well full today so I set the time for it first 12hr night :) tucked it again 2nite so next 2weeks il clear the bottom up some more an keep tucking under the screen
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#23 olmec

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:17 PM

it had its 4th long nights sleep today (12/12) and all is looking well it had a tuck n a trim last night and is filling the rest of the screen fast ive left it alone tonight, think it will be 90%-95% full by the time true flower is here and the stretch stops, i can see signs this is already going into flower ( mature cutting ) it doesnt look any wear near as full as it is in the pictures but in the real world its moved a lot, have trimmed a lot downstairs but there is a few area's that still need attention, but i rekon ive got another week to finish that off.

 

here are a few above screen shots

 

 

 

 

and 2 under skirt shots for us pervs

 

 

this next photo is almost as bad as my wire knot when im setting up my turntables and soundsystem ahaha

 

 

so how am i doing master scroggers am i still on the right track??


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#24 captain beefheart

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:21 PM

aye bach....loooks great imo jest keep em sweet now :D


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#25 olmec

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:34 PM

aye bach....loooks great imo jest keep em sweet now :D

 

heres a quick question for ya beefy clart, ive got a 600 magnetic ballast in cupboard and the digi 600 ive got running, should i bang the magnetic one in with my 600hps and put my 400 dual spec bulb in the digi ballast ( dimmed to 400 ) for the flower period ( if the temps drop again from next week ) think it will be worth it in bud in the end? bud vs electricity im thinking space is 1.5m x 1.5m and 2 meter tall?


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#26 MDS

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:40 PM

heres a quick question for ya beefy clart, ive got a 600 magnetic ballast in cupboard and the digi 600 ive got running, should i bang the magnetic one in with my 600hps and put my 400 dual spec bulb in the digi ballast ( dimmed to 400 ) for the flower period ( if the temps drop again from next week ) think it will be worth it in bud in the end? bud vs electricity im thinking space is 1.5m x 1.5m and 2 meter tall?

 

In that area I'd run 2000W m8, seriously... So yes I'd do what you mentioned :D

 

Makes perfect sense to me :)

 

Edit To Add:- Only as long as you can keep it cool though ;)
 


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#27 captain beefheart

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:40 PM

heres a quick question for ya beefy clart, ive got a 600 magnetic ballast in cupboard and the digi 600 ive got running, should i bang the magnetic one in with my 600hps and put my 400 dual spec bulb in the digi ballast ( dimmed to 400 ) for the flower period ( if the temps drop again from next week ) think it will be worth it in bud in the end? bud vs electricity im thinking space is 1.5m x 1.5m and 2 meter tall?

aye bach....if ewe can expel the heat go for it,tho its not all about light i know mates of mates who run 1000x2 in a 2mt tent....but they end up with piss poor yields .......for light ! .....but yes imo its worth it ;)

 


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#28 olmec

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 09:12 AM

So what will be best to run then I can either run a 600w hps and a 400w dual spec or
A 600w hps and a 600w MH

What u think would be best?
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#29 2scoops

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 09:41 AM

Scrog looks good Olmec. I wouldnt be training after 7 days of 12/12 if in coco m8, i did it for 10 days and let them go only for my buds that were through the screen to be mostly 5 and 6 inch long, i was aiming at 10inch tops above screen, that was with a stretchy hydrid > jack herer.


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#30 MDS

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 09:43 AM

Without adding extra CO2 plants will increase yield (as long as you can keep things cool) up to 90W per square foot of area. Above that you'd need to add extra CO2 to get any benefit ;)

 

I tend to run 800W in a 1M square tent & 1200W in a 1.2M tent, if you do the math you'll see they both work out at about 75W per foot square..

 

Given the choice between a 400W HPS & a 600W MH is a little more complex. You see the MH isn't as efficient as the HPS & actually puts out around the same amount of light, which means it puts out more heat :( However you'll probably find if you tried it that trichome production would increase over just plain HPS due to the UVB output of the MH tube. You'd also significantly reduce stretch when you flip them..

 

I use mixed lighting up until 2 weeks after going to flower mode, my plants don't stretch at all. At that point I swap out the MH for another HPS.

 

Apples & Oranges...It's a difficult choice when they aren't quite the same thing ;)

 

Maybe use the 600MH for the first two weeks to keep stretch down if you want & then change the tube for the 400W HPS?

 

You have lots of choices, but 600W over that area isn't a lot of light at all. As long as you can keep things cool then as I say I'd run 2KW over that area :D Again that would be around 75W per foot square..


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