VACUUM PURGING
see how i wrote that in caps ! can't be arsed to delete and type again !
where to start ? size of chamber perhaps ? i honestly couldn't tell you the exact size of this chamber without filling it up with water or something like that, all i will say is that i wouldn't really want a smaller one as when under vacuum it will rise or "muffin" as they call it and you don't want anything sticking to the walls of the chamber, that being said I'm gonna go with 8-10 litre chamber something along those lines, this kit i have is very basic really and if i was going to buy one i would get one with a round lid and silicone seal attached to the lid and not the chamber pot like mine is, as i believe the seal would last a lot longer !
so my hotplate is still warm from having the pyrex dish on it, now i feel safe enough to carry on indoors as there not enough tane to blow me up and i need to keep temps as stable as possible, so i get the pot/chamber onto the hotplate keeping my eye on the temps, then place the ptfe sheet with the bho on it into the chamber, now i know how to control the temps roughly on my hotplate because I've used it so many times, remember when i was banging on about temps not going over 40 degrees C this is where its most important, when under full vac (or 29 hg) thc boils off at 40 degrees C so if i put it under full vacuum, or 29 hg it will boil off what i call the goodies and not stone you as different canibinoids have different boiling points, anyone who makes canna caps or edibles should know this for decarboxylation, theca being the first to boil off at 140 something degrees C but when under vacuum it drops to 40 degrees C, the drop in boiling points is due to atmospheric pressure, when you play with pressures like that i suppose you could say your playing with the structure of whatever exposed to it ?
wow, deep and probably wrong ? but tis my take on things !
back to the extraction,
goodies in chamber, chamber heated slighty, a digital heat pad is bang on for this but i don't have one, suppose i should get but its on the list of stuff i want not need lol
lid on, all valves closed, turn vac pump on, wait 10 seconds to get full vac in the hose, then open the hose valve and get that baby rising !
the gauge on the chamber lid has 2 valve, the one attached to the pump i will call the "hose valve" and the other i will call the "chamber valve"
now as it goes under pressure it will rise and to stop it touching the sides of the chamber and getting in one big sticky mess you will have to deflate it from time to time, to do this you will need to close the "hose valve" then gently open the "chamber valve", sure you can just open the "chamber valve" without closing the "hose valve" but remember your chamber is under pressure and we don't want any unwanted vacuum pump oil being pulled into the chamber and ruining everything now we got this far ! so with that in mind never open the "hose valve" when the chamber is under pressure and pump turned off, if in doubt, close all valves, the release the vacuum by opening the "chamber valve" then you can safely open the "hose valve" i don't see why you want to as the hose would already be under vacuum ready to go next time !
keep sidetracking i do !
i notice that when i get to around 20-25hg on the gauge it starts to rise and i have to keep releasing the vacuum pressure, after 5-10 mins or so it stops continuously rising now i can get it under full vacuum without worry of it going all over the chamber !
i only pull to round 28.5hg-29hg as the boiling point rises from 40 degrees C at 29hg to 93 degrees C at 28.5hg so that 0.5hg buffer gives me like 50 degrees C to play with, but with that in mind low n slow is the way forward here,
pics
vacuum pump half filled, this is fine as when its on the level will rise to max
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in she goes !
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eye on temps all the time !
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everything closed ready and waiting !
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and were off !
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