fungus gnats ( little black flys )
#1
Posted 06 July 2014 - 10:49 AM
let's go through them and get this fixed.
This is an adult fungus gnat.
Fungus gnat larvae.
Fungus gnats are small, dark, short-lived flies, of the families Sciaridae, Diadocidiidae, Ditomyiidae, Keroplatidae, Bolitophilidae, and Mycetophilidae (order Diptera); they are sometimes placed in the superfamily Mycetophiloidea.
The larvae of fungus gnats feed on plant roots and fungi, which aids in the decomposition of organic matter. The adults are 2–5 mm long and are important pollinators that can help spread mushroom spores as well as plant pollen. It is well documented that they carry on their feet such diseases as pythium.
Fungus gnats are typically harmless to healthy plants but cause more of a nuisance to the gardener but can inflict extensive damage to seedlings an small plants; their presence can be indicative of more serious problems. In houseplants, the presence of fungus gnats may indicate overwatering; they may be feeding on roots that have sat in stagnant water too long and are thus rotting, or the gnats may be attracted to fungus growing in saturated topsoil. Consequently, allowing the soil to dry may reduce their numbers.
There are a number of ways to break the fungus gnat reproduction cycle using chemicals such an gnat off etc but I always found that a simple layer of sharp sand on top of the soil works best. This acts like little knives to the gnats an slashes there wings and legs which deters them from getting back into the soil to lay there eggs.
Simply put 1/2 inch of sand on top of your soil and allow it to dry.
You can also add a few potatoes slices to the soil which will attract some of the larvae to it which you then just remove and chuck away.
Also fly sticky strips that hang from the walls or ceiling will catch any left over gnats hanging about.
There are also a few predator mites that will eat the gnat larvae which will also clean up the soil.
Introducing Hypoaspis miles mites or applying the biological larvicide Bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies israelensis) to kill the gnats in their larval stage; the larvacide must be applied weekly as a soil drench for 4–5 weeks. Annually drenching the soil in an insecticidal soap; Detergents and the nicotine from tobacco brewed into a toxic tea are used by some people to control fungus gnats to good effect.
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#2
Posted 06 July 2014 - 11:14 AM
It basically went like this, I go in the tent and take a seat for five mins to do some topping and lst and I was engulfed in about 100 little flys, next day I went and got some sticky traps put them in the tent, out of 5 sticky traps I caught only 3 flies but after a week all the fly's had gone, since then every now and again I spot a single fly, they seemed to just fook off lol was my groom that bad
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#3
Posted 06 July 2014 - 11:16 AM
Awesome guide, yo! I've also heard from good sources that using a hydrogen peroxide (the 3% kind from chemists) & water solution is an effective way to murder the larvae.
I much prefer the sound iof using sand, however. The idea of the little beasties wrecking themselves sounds sickenly satifsying.
In a weird way, a part of me is looking forward and hoping to have an outbreak just so I can murk them... I think I may need psychological help.
Thanks again mate! x
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#4
Posted 06 July 2014 - 11:41 AM
Good article Mellowed, death to fungus gnats.
I'd just add that it's best to wash the sand a few times as it sometimes contains salts and other things that the plant won't like.
As you said, only use sharp sand, builders sand always has a lot of shit in it.
All good things
TDA
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#5
Posted 03 September 2014 - 04:42 PM
builders sand always has a lot of shit in it.
Usually plastic cups and cat shit
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#6
Posted 03 September 2014 - 05:09 PM
sand
I suggest using proper horticultural grit or sand. It's not expensive, and it's definitely safe
For getting rid of an infestation, I've found ordinary, household fly-spray/killer to be effective - Turn off the extraction fans (leave the circulation fan running), spray a short burst, and close up the space for 15 minutes or so. Open it up, ventilate well, and then turn it all back on.
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#7
Posted 03 September 2014 - 06:11 PM
hi mellowed nice post but may i add that if you use white spirit vinegar for phing it controls the larvae by starving them to death the sand is a good barrier to the adults relaying but the vinegar works better than gnatoff or gnatrol both of which i ceased using i tested this by using vinegar in 1 plant and ordinary ph stuff in the other and found no live larvae after 1 week using vinegar were as the other still had many live larvae,this is in coco not tried it in mud yet but may work as well.good luck all
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#8
Posted 11 September 2015 - 04:16 PM
Introducing Hypoaspis miles mites or applying the biological larvicide Bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies israelensis) to kill the gnats in their larval stage; the larvacide must be applied weekly as a soil drench for 4–5 weeks. Annually drenching the soil in an insecticidal soap; Detergents and the nicotine from tobacco brewed into a toxic tea are used by some people to control fungus gnats to good effect.
Hey Mellowed I use the hypo mites on my girls just as precautionary measure after having the lil fuckers once before... I had to get some for my snakes too so I get 2 uses out of them they do a great job too.... thanks for sharing matey
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#9
Posted 15 December 2015 - 06:45 PM
I use my Henry hoover to suck any up
And suck the loose soil/coco every couple of days!
Got to get me some sand though..
Wanna get rid if possible!!
Edited by Red eyed knight, 15 December 2015 - 06:45 PM.
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#10
Posted 16 December 2015 - 03:45 PM
not that everyone has the option of doing this but i hear if you chuck your bag of dirt/coco/whatever in the chest freezer before use, this kills any unwanted critters, i know someone who does this with pro plus terra and has no more nat problems ! aint done it myself, just putting it out there !
Roy
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