no 5.8 is for coco dex stick to around 6.2 / 6.4 and see how you go imo
PH Lockout Chart
#11
Posted 16 March 2016 - 08:56 PM
- Dex likes this
#12
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:00 PM
I use tesco water
I reckon you'd be better off with ordinary tap water than bottled water
Do leave tap water to stand for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate first though.
ETA: Bottled water is generally on the acidic side of neutral (6.5, for instance), which is usually caused by dissolved carbon dioxide produced by decomposing micro-organisms, and it contains a fair amount of phosphates, nitrates, etc. which will throw the nutrient balance out of whack.
ETA2: The pH of bottled water (and tap water, for that matter) will change once it's been left exposed to the air for a while and the carbon dioxide has evaporated.
- Budgie, Zipp and WildRambler like this
#13
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:25 PM
Do you put that lot in every time you water? You might just have overdone it a bit,
And go on, give us a picture or two, don't be embarrassed - we've all been there , it will help.
#14
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:29 PM
- Ken Erbis likes this
#15
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:44 PM
Since lowering ph I see the absorption, and I been staring at plants long enough to know when I'm under or over feeding. But this round for some reason is gone crazy.
I did use tap water and that made things worse with hard water, up north we are hated more our water is good for swimming pool not consumption, I don't drink tap water so my ladies don't lol. It's really bad water even if left for 24hrs.
But yeah I will get down to this, the soil is 40/70% peat and the rest is made up of smart fiber stuff with is peat free.
So I'm thinking because they have been in their final pots for a while could the peat dissappear and it be more of that peat free smart fibers?
It's the only thing that makes sense because it's started on ph of 6.5 now few weeks later they are wanting lower and lower.
Because at 6.5 on hydro chart Deff is p and k
Yet on soil chart I shouldn't have a p.k
Now I'm been lowering the p deff in particular is disappearing and the budds are forming and filling nicely for a change, it only makes sense if I look at hydro chart lmao..... Or is it?
Lol I need a bother spliff
- Budgie likes this
#16
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:48 PM
- Budgie likes this
#17
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:51 PM
charts are great for info....but its knowing ewe got lockout to begun with......using coco ime its all about feeding correct cf/ph....BUT also a major player is flushing @ certain stages throughout the grow,as salts do tend to build up twice as quick as dirt see bach,so all in all if ewe grow ya plants properly.....ewed never have any lockout !!!!!!!!!!!!
- Budgie, mellowed and Dex like this
#18
Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:59 PM
In soil you shouldnt have to do anything with the ph. My advise would be throw away your ph pen, ph up and down and as anonymiss says leave tap water out over night for chlorine to evaporate off and forget about measuring ph its not hydrol. Soil will buffer itself, even very tiny pots of it. I have no doubt you will continue to mess about with the ph so wish you most success balancing an elephant on a pin..
- mellowed and Dex like this
#19
Posted 16 March 2016 - 10:01 PM
Haha, its miracle grow compost isnt it Lab.
- Budgie likes this
#20
Posted 16 March 2016 - 10:04 PM
And I use my trays as guide for salt build up, after it dripped in the bucket I put email a freshly washed tray... As tray dries the salts show up
I never over feed gavin has seen my past grows and all after so long get under fed look and deffs later on that look like npk all in one.
This is my first time experiencing this issue full whack like this, I was just curious because I think I need to follow the coco chart for some reason, the lower I go the greener it is.
I was hoping maybe someone has grown in this soil or have experience with soil that has this stupid smart fibers... thanks all for your help
- Budgie likes this