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11/13 light cycles... do you run them and what do you reckon?

11/13

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#11 rasputin

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 03:57 AM

12 an a half off ... 11 an a half on .. for me 


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#12 Nefarious Shenanigans

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 07:08 AM

yep I'm giving my coco girls 11/13

 

both known cuts I am very familiar with

 

we will see if anything unusual happens

 

thanks for chiming in F13nd and Ras


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#13 Huktonfonics

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 09:34 AM

I've been reading up on Far Red Flower Inititiators, and found out that when the girls are in bloom and the lights go out, it takes anywhere up to 2 hours for them to actually get to sleep ( I'm not making this shit up I swear ). So what folks are doing is adding Far Red 730nm LEDS which come on 15 mins before lights out and stay on for anything between 15 - 30 mins after lights out, and its supposed to put them right to bed sharpish. You can run the normal 12/12 or extend your lights on period this way. I guess this could go towards a shorter flowering cycle if done 12/12 too.

Makes me think that this could be the reason I found my CMH grows finished slightly quicker, perhaps the broader spectrum.

I made my own far red bars and staying on 12/12 in hopes that it brings out all the best traits in these girls I'm running so I can find a keeper.

My 2 cents. Also 660nm red light is supposed to be good for waking them up. I suppose it mimmicks sunrise and sunset.



I've added 2 x 315w CMH bulbs to my grow aswell. I have them on for 1 hour at lights on, 2 hours mid cycle and 1 hour at the end of the cycle, running 930 bulbs, just for shits and giggles.

Edited by Huktonfonics, 06 March 2018 - 09:52 AM.

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#14 Enzyme303

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 10:40 AM

Do ye think i could get away with 11/13 or 10/10 with hps, if it gives me the same results im there :)

 

Great thread i like rule breakers :)


Edited by Enzyme303, 06 March 2018 - 10:40 AM.

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#15 Huktonfonics

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 01:48 PM

@Enzyme303

I don't see why not Mate, I've only seen grows done using the flower initiators with led/cobs but I'm sure the principle stays the same.
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#16 Nefarious Shenanigans

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 04:18 PM

yeah that coco grow did very well, no complaints. Final weight on it was just over 1 a watt... 11 hour flower cycle. Things got frosty, but probably no more than usual on 12/12, expression was as expected, except my blackjack had more long slender flower formations. Is that from a change in light cycle? very hard to determine with so many variables in my show

 

of course I have nothing to compare it with that is actual like for like comparison, with that being my first coco run. But my organic girls have been getting 17 hour days in veg (COB) and you can still see them go to sleep for the last half hour or a little longer, growth is good

 

I think you can do it with HPS too @Enzyme303, that coco run i did was started under a 600 HPS and just finished the second half of flower under COB once the room became free

 

all the far red stuff is very interesting @Huktonfonics, both as a sleep and wake up initiator, and as simply having some small amount of far red shining all the time like in a wider spectra, all that emerson effect stuff etc. I may do it in the future, but I have a long list of other shit I need to have to progress and simple COB does a fine job all by itself at the moment for us here. I think COB and LEC together will be epic for you brother and that is another thing on that long list of mine. My ghetto way of simulating that sunset and sunrise dynamic is to fire up the 3000K first thing and last thing, with the 3500K coming on and turning off about ten mins either side of the cycle LOL I dunno how effective that is but I do it anyway and save a few mins more leccy on the 3500Ks

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#17 Solo Quin

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:03 PM

I agree,@Huktonfonics

 

My led is full spectrum and IR UVB, I did four autos all different strains the two under the led finished up first,

The growth under the HPS has taken longer I think this is because it has a limited spectrum.

 

 


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#18 Huktonfonics

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:11 PM

@Nefarious Shenanigans

 

Mate ive just been looking at the spectral graph for the Phillips Agro 930 CMH bulb, and its got plenty of the Reds / Deep Red / Far reds plus all the UV ( maybe slightly slightly less UV than the 942 ) to compliment any COB. Im not suprised people seem to think theyre grows finish a bit quicker. How have you been finding them supplimenting your COBs with these ? I was going to switch out to the 942 bulbs to finish them off, but I dont think ill bother now unless I can get 2 of those 10k finnisher bulbs.

 

I will say though, that of all my grows ( Ive done 2 x HPS, 2 x CMH, 2 x CMH/HPS, and my first LED grow ) Ive never had such stacked and beautiful plants as I have growing under these COBS / CMH, I wish I could have got them to stretch a bit more lol. They are short and stocky as fuck, the leaves are shiny and look like fake waxed plants, and the pistils seem WAY bigger, bushier and longer. Ill defo be trying a SCROG, wether the flood & drain had any play in this, I doubt, but so far im finding that the suppliments and boosters I chose to use are creating more residue and gunk in the rez than I care for, even though all the root balls are healthy, it just gives me the creeps seeing floaty shit in the rez. Anyhow, I digress...

 

Loving the COBS, and tempted to start increasing the light cycle to 14 on 10 off when I get into flower on my next grow, as ill be adding some 660nm red and adding some 730nm and 760nm leds to my fixtures instead of just onto some scrap bits of extrusion.

 

Less time putting the girls to sleep = more time blasting them with light.


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#19 Huktonfonics

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:17 PM

I agree,@Huktonfonics

 

My led is full spectrum and IR UVB, I did four autos all different strains the two under the led finished up first,

The growth under the HPS has taken longer I think this is because it has a limited spectrum.

 

Definatley mate, all this light recipe stuff is starting to get very intersting, and im suprised on how much certain spectrums have an affect on our chosen plants. At some point it wont be how many photons you can hammer the plants with ( efficiency say whut ), it'll be what spectrum and at what time to hit 'em with it. Even green house growers are supplimenting with select spectrum LED's.

 

Ive already got some 660nm red, Im going to get some IR and UV diodes so I can get rid of the CMH.

 

Fuckin Hooked now :rolleyes:


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#20 Solo Quin

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:50 PM

I've stolen this from another site some good info about my led

 

These are the 11 spectras that your need.740nm and 760nm arent key but will give you massive buds.The others are key for healthy flora and maximum chloryl a+b production.
760nm, 740nm, 720nm, 660nm, 630nm, 615nm-480nm, 460nm, 440nm, 415nm, 380nm.

Thats not to say a led grow light with less spectras wont grow a plant through the whole cycle because it will but the difference when you have 11 bands is staggering.660nm is required to trigger flowering and its very important to have the four types of blue including ultra violet,to simulate the night and day patterns of the sun.

A 90 degree lense will give you lots of penertration but will mean you will have to have the light a greater distance from your plants.60 and 30 degrees increase the footprint and give you more coverage.In a grow tent or wardrobe your only need a 90-60 degree lense.

A smaller number of 3watt diodes will produce less heat then a larger number of 1watt diodes,so if you want less fans in the light,less heat opt for a 3watt light.Neither are better and a 3watt led diode only uses between 2-2.2 watts.So for example a 200watt light will have 100 3watt led diodes or 200 1watt diodes.


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