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#21 MDS

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:18 PM

My other goal is to replicate the increasing and decreasing of the intensity of the sun.

Something like
5000k cobs come on

then the 3000k quantums half an hour later

10 minutes later the 660nm reds

a half an hour of uvb(increasing weekly) right in the middle

Reverse it and add 15 mins of the 730nm far red after everything goes out.

That's just a matter of playing with timers and maybe it's just playing in general. Not sure if there is any benefit to this over just hitting them full blast for the entirety of the "day".

 

If you wanted to go to town it wouldn't be impossible to gradually bring the LEDs up to your full preset brightness over a period of your choosing...

 

Nothing is impossible :) It just gets more complex... If you could write code the whole lot could be controlled with something like a Raspberry Pi.. It could also be done with analogue circuitry, I feel absolutely sure..
 


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#22 Stutter

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:20 PM

im going to be building a little test light for a space dedicated to mothers.

 

im going to be testing out the samsung H-influx strips they use the most efficient chip available. even more efficient than the chip on the quantum boards apparently. pretty excited even though its only going to be a little 100w light for a cabinet.

if i like it i will go big and do my tent


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#23 Elevator dude

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:27 PM

Google time, kids are glued to the ps4 and the wife is shopping so I'm keeping the couch company today thanks for giving me something else to look up until Live PD comes on stutter.
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#24 Elevator dude

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:29 PM

If you wanted to go to town it wouldn't be impossible to gradually bring the LEDs up to your full preset brightness over a period of your choosing...

Nothing is impossible :) It just gets more complex... If you could write code the whole lot could be controlled with something like a Raspberry Pi.. It could also be done with analogue circuitry, I feel absolutely sure..


@ALF was balls deep in doing exactly that with his mad scientist light set up. He might be dead though...
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#25 MDS

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:48 PM

@ALF was balls deep in doing exactly that with his mad scientist light set up. He might be dead though...

 

Personally I think that's a waste of time ;) You see having grown plants in a greenhouse & know when they started flowering I know for a fact that below a certain amount of light the plants don't respond to it...

 

It's not like they're saying, ooohhh look it's not light enough to start doing something yet, they just start doing their thing when it gets to a certain brightness :)

 

Though it might be an idea to not go full brightness with LEDs straight away, because naturally they would do.. But HIDs have a run up time & it might be an idea to emulate that so as not to shock them with full pelt lighting each day :D

 

That'd be easy to do....

 

When you check out those Meanwell drivers check & see if they have a ROF terminal (remote on/off), because if they do you can get away without using a contactor, thus saving more power :)
 


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#26 Bandit 4freekin20

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Posted 01 July 2018 - 01:03 PM

@ALF was balls deep in doing exactly that with his mad scientist light set up. He might be dead though...

 

As I read your opening post I was thinking you need to talk to ALF and let him lead you down the rabbit hole :D There's nobody I respect more in regards to light innovations, solutions, and efficiency. He's pretty much the reason I run Osram equipped panels  ;)  Even though we kinda disagree on power...I go big and he goes way low...so low I consider it impossible, his results are undeniable. He can do shit with 100 watts it takes me to do with 500.

 

He might have the info posted already. He had reds pretty much locked down and dialed and was last tinkering with blues. It's just gonna be a way different and more complex assembly using his Osram plan compared to Cree COB.

 

And he's not dead brother. He just went home.

After crashing at Roswell back in '47 it took some time for him to steal back his ship and fix it up for interstellar travel.

I see him every now and then when I look thru my telescope and see his home quasar. He shoots me the finger and I just smile, knowing all is well with him, looking forward to his return to Earth :)
 


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#27 Elevator dude

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Posted 01 July 2018 - 04:39 PM

You have me rethinking the quantum boards stutter. I am leaning towards the samsung f series light strips now. It's going to be a cheaper route with better efficiency and a better light spread.
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#28 MDS

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Posted 02 July 2018 - 08:26 PM

Sorry ED, I'll get something up for your consideration soon m8 :)

 

Just been a hectic weekend here, a mate rang up & came over Sunday & we spent the day trimming (with loud music & lots of toking, naturally :D), today I have been playing catch up on plant watering & updating etc :rolleyes:

 

I'll see what I can do tomorrow or Wednesday... At some stage this week I have to food shop & also go into the city... Great fun seeing all the Zombies walking around looking at their phones :D Think I might just try tripping a few up & see what happens :lol:

 

Nah, the thought's nice mind you :)


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#29 Elevator dude

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Posted 03 July 2018 - 04:13 PM

No worries my friend, I just found out about light strips so I'm rethinking just about everything.
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#30 MDS

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Posted 03 July 2018 - 06:19 PM

No worries my friend, I just found out about light strips so I'm rethinking just about everything.

 

Well there's still no harm in showing you how I'm going to remove all the heat from the heatsinks :)

 

A few words of advice, think of the future... What I mean by that is think about what you're buying if if it's futureproof!

 

Make sure you use something like a 6mm (1/4") aluminium sheet between the LEDs you're thinking of purchasing & the heatsink... Then you can change the LEDs to different ones if the chip shape is different, just by fitting a new sheet of alloy & not making more holes in the heatsink..

 

I'm going to be using what appears to be the standard chip size for 100W COB LEDs...

 

Anyway here you go... First up the heatsink itself, I have a load of these thankfully & they're about 0.35C/W with the fins vertical in free air... With air being pulled over them this will drop to 0.1C/W or lower depending on the air velocity ;)

 

Like I say, I'm going to be drilling & tapping a 6mm aluminium sheet to bolt the LEDs to, this will then be bolted to the heatsink... Now imagine 4 of these LED clusters & heatsinks with the LEDs facing downwards... They'll be mounted into a sealed box with the air being sucked over the heatsink fins & out the back via a 150mm (6") duct...

 

It should be pretty self explanatory... But of course if you have questions then fire away :)

 

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