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DIY brain pot for flood and drain.


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#11 bigbadbillybob

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 12:51 PM

this is the type of thing I was hoping to end up with, seems fairly simple compared to the multi float switch diy set ups.

What do you think Annonymiss?

do-able or not?

 

https://www.bing.com...13&&FORM=VRDGAR


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#12 Bandit 4freekin20

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 01:46 PM

They're very ez to build. Might be better to buy a complete kit rather than parts though. Only thing the kits are missing is the bucket.

 

http://www.aquahub.c.../product39.html

 

EbbAndFlowControlKitJune2011LargeJPG.jpg

 

 

Main thing is drill all holes perfectly and clean them of any burrs that could cause a leak.

Also maybe shop around. Controller Buckets are so popular and inexpensive in the USA it's cheaper to buy one complete rather than build one.

Plus the newer versions have a bracket inside for the upper float valves to mount so the grower can adjust flood depth. Nice feature to have if you want to go with 7 gallon or larger plant sites. I've used mine with 5, 7, and 9 gallon plant sites because it has that bracket

 

EDIT: BTW the controllers your friend broke may be easily repaired. Usually it's the lower float valves that fail and they can be replaced ez.

Also, these systems are hell on pumps. Especially the drain pump as it turns off and on dozens of times during a drain cycle and can sometimes keep running without water if the drain float valve sits higher than the pump pickup point.

It's always a good idea to have an extra pump or two around as a spare and also invest in a pump for the drain that has the lowest pickup you can find.  :)


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#13 Anonymiss

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 01:58 PM

That's the sort of thing I was thinking of, @bigbadbillybob, but with a third float switch as a fail-safe, and without the secondary timer.

Having mulled things over, I reckon the simplest and cheapest method would require a mains-powered timer, three (or two) float switches, and a single relay like the one you used in your Variac project, but whether it's possible depends on what pumps you're intending to use - Anything up to 50 Watts (which sounds like loads for an aquarium pump) would probably be fine if you used different float switches.
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#14 Anonymiss

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 02:00 PM

Or maybe just get a kit like the one @Bandit420 linked, if you can find a UK version?
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#15 bigbadbillybob

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 02:55 PM

cool.

 

The kit mentioned is a USA spec one, and the power draw would be different. 

id rather make my own if possible,...…….. I like a challenge

 

SO my parts list would include

25 litre bucket with lid, with  IWS fittings for feed pipes

200L reserviour

 

Timer mentioned in my previous post.

3 of the fancy stainless 50W float switches, 

a 240v AC relay,

a couple of water pumps drawing less than 50W, and capable of a 2 metre head.

terminal block

cable, glands,grommets  etc

plug.

Would also need 2 separate trailing leads (one for each pump)? 

 

Is that right?

 

 

Bandit 420. That's the system used in the link, with an excellent write up on AN other forum. IC mag one

For the return pump, I would be looking to mount it vertically in the brain pot, and use a 90 bend from the outlet, taking it out the top of the brain pot. This would mean that the pump pickup end would be permenantly submerged in the brain pot water.

 

Would you be able to help with the wiring side of things Anonnymiss?

 


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#16 Anonymiss

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 12:00 PM

Hey Billy :wave:

The weekend kind of got on top of me but I'll be around this evening :)
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#17 bigbadbillybob

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 12:46 PM

cool, thanks Missy

Its always good to have a blow out every now and again. 

 

I have  found some pumps too, hailea hx 4500

2000l/hr, 36 watts, 3m head with 1.3 m of cable- should do nicely.


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#18 Anonymiss

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 08:13 PM

Here you go :)

post-7-0-81045100-1537833736.png

Attached Files


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#19 bigbadbillybob

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 08:55 PM

Thank you very much Anonymiss,

That looks great, I will use this when I get the parts together.

im fairly certain I will be back with some dumb questions when I do.

 

cheers Missy



#20 Anonymiss

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 08:58 PM

A few notes on the above...

The default state, with power applied and the timer off, is for the drain pump to run until the liquid drops below the low-level float switch, at which point it will switch off. (But if you pour a bucket of water in, it will start again.)

When the timer switches on, the relay operates, disconnecting the drain pump circuit and connecting the fill pump, which runs until the liquid reaches either of the high-level switches, at which point it will turn off.

When the timer turns off, the relay switches back to the default state, disconnecting the fill side and connecting the drain pump, which then behaves as described above.


Because of the design, where the drain pump neutral is always connected to the mains neutral in the 'drain' state, I recommend hardwiring the drain pump inside the box rather than using a plug and socket.

The fill pump is fully-isolated from the mains in the drain state, but its neutral is still connecetd to mains neutral when it switches off as the liquid reaches the switch so it might be a good idea to hardwire that one too if you can.

Don't be tempted to push the free end of either pipe below the liquid level in either container or you run the risk of syphoning the reservoir into the brain, and then all over the floor.

I'd also think about the pump speeds - What you've quoted seems high (although I haven't done any working out) and you'll probably be restricted by (and, I would have thought, wouldn't want to exceed) how fast the nutrients can flow in and out of the pipes between the brain and the pots.
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